HISTORICAL OCEANOGRAPHY

Around 200 B.C., Eratosthenes calculated the circumference of the earth with a unique experiment. His estimate of 40,000 km is very close to the 40,032 km accepted today.

Starting in 1522 Magellan's crew circumnavigates the world. Magellan was killed in the Philippines.

 

An early map of the world shows a surprising resemblance to present day maps.

 

An impediment to early exploration of the oceans was the ability to determine latitude and longitude, particularly longitude.

Latitude can be determined by the angle between the horizon and the North Star. The North Star essentially remains fixed in position.

Longitude is a function of time. Since a circle is 360 degrees and earth rotates once every 24 hours, the earth rotates through 15 degrees of longitude every hour.  

In 1760, John Harrison invented a third generation of a seagoing chronometer which was reliable, but quite large. A fourth generation chronometer finally allowed reliable and practical determination of longitude.

One of the earliest maps of the Gulf Stream was published by Benjamin Franklin in 1769.

 

The five year cruise of the BEAGLE began in 1831. The Chief Scientist was a naturalist named Charles Darwin. It was on this cruise that he formulated his ideas concerning evolution. The crucial observations were made in the Galapagos Islands.

 

In 1872 The HMS CHALLENGER set sail from England for a three and one-half year around the world.The CHALLENGER was the first major oceanographic expedition from 1872-1876 to systematically collect data from a large part of the worlds oceans under the direction of the chief scientist Sir Charles Wyville Thomson (no 'p').

The expedition took 3 1/2 years and covered over 65,000 nm. They occupied 362 stations and took the first soundings over 12,000' using a 200 lb. weight.

They used hemp lines for towing nets and dredges as well as the soundings.

At each station they took soundings and measured the temperature of the surface and the bottom and fairly frequently the intermediate layers as well. Usually they made one or more hauls with the dredge or trawl and towed nets and measured surface currents.

They found that at a depth of about 3000 fms the sediments contained little or no globigerina ooze (the carbonate compensation depth). They collected manganese nodules.

They discovered the Puerto Rico Trench when their self-registering thermometers came up fractured from the great pressure at a station 90 miles north of St. Thomas. In a crossing from the Cape Verde Islands to Brazil they found the deepest temperatures change from 36 degrees C on the east to 34 degrees C in the west. Nares, the captain, speculated that the Atlantic was divided down the middle by a bank or series of banks from Dolphin Rise in the north to Ascension Island or even St. Helena in the south. At their furthest station south, 153, they measured the surface temperature at 29.5 degrees C and a reading of 32 degrees C at 300 fms and 32.8 degrees C at 500 fms. This apparent temperature inversion is the sinking of the Antarctic Intermediate Water.

A 50 volume series of reports was eventually produced which described over 4000 new species. A complete set is in the TAMU library.

 

1888 - The Marine Biological Laboratory is founded in Woods Hole, Massachusetts.

 

1893 - Nansen sets adrift in the FRAM to prove that the Arctic Ocean is entirely ice covered with no continent under the ice.

 

1912 - Alfred Wegner begins a series of lectures on continental drift, a radically new concept at the time.

 

1912 - Scripps Institution of Oceanography becomes affiliated with the University of California. SIO is located in La Jolla, California, just north of San Diego.

 

1930 - Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution is founded. It is located on Cape Cod Massachusetts.

 

1949 - Texas A&M Department of Oceanography and Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory (in Palisades, New York) are founded.

 

1960 - The bathyscaphe TRIESTE descends to 10,915m in the Marianas Trench

 

1965 - Scripps Institution of Oceanography develops a new type of ship called FLIP or Floating Laboratory and Instrument Platform. It is towed to the working area where one end is flooded and it starts to tip up, finally reaching its full, upright position. In this position it has remarkable vertical stability.

 

1968 - Monster Bouys are located across the Pacific to collect oceanographic and meteorological data.

 

1968 - The GLOMAR CHALLENGER starts operations for the Deep-Sea Drilling Project. Over the years the OPD (Ocean Drilling Project) has drilled many sites. Many different drill bits are used under various conditions. The rig that sits on the bottom has a re-entry cone that allows a site to be revisited and re-entered if necessary. This program is an international effort and the U.S. budget alone is about $40m. At present, the program is operated from the Texas A&M campus with offices on the West Campus.

 

1977 - ALVIN, the only U.S. manned, scientific deep submersible (at that time), locates and documents deep-sea hydrothermal vents in the eastern tropical Pacific.

 

1978 - SEASAT, a dedicated oceanographic satellite, is launched.

Satellites allow the measurement of global sea surface temperature (SST) over a period of about two weeks, so that fall SST and summer SST can be subtracted to get seasonal differences.

Satellites also allow the measurement of surface chlorophyll concentrations to be measured over similar periods.

1985 - JOIDES RESOLUTION replaces the GLOMAR CHALLENGER as the flagship of the Ocean Drilling Program.

 

1985 - JASON finds and documents the wreck of the TITANIC. Bob Ballard, the designer, goes on to explore other wrecks such as the BISMARK and the LUSITANIA.

 

1992 - TOPEX is launched to measure sea surface altimetry.

 

Since the turn of the century many major oceanographic expeditions have been mounted, but the costs have escalated and alternative modes of data collection are being explored. TODAY a large vessel (250 ft) costs about $18,000/day while a smaller vessel such as the TAMU GYRE 170 ft) runs about $8,000/day

Specialized vessels are used for special applications at added expense. These include ships like the JOIDES RESOLUTION for deep-sea drilling (more in the geological section) and ALVIN for manned exploration of the deep-sea floor. It requires a dedicated surface support vessel and can cost a total of $20,000/day. ALVIN and the RESOLUTION are operated by consortia.

Satellites are very expensive also and collect near-surface data only, but can cover large sections of the oceans in very short periods of time. Additional information on satellites can be obtained from the home page for Goddard Space Center, the SeaWiFS Project Home Page,or the TOPEX/Poseidon Home Page.

 

There have also been major changes in sources of funding -

in the early days of oceanographic exploration funding came from governments such as in the case of the CHALLENGER, but they were few in number. Most was funded by private sources and was necessarily limited in scope.

With the onset of W.W.II, it became very clear that the United States had insufficient knowledge of the seas, the tides and coastal processes. The Navy began to fund a significant amount of research.

In 1950 the National Science Foundation was formed and began to fund oceanographic research. Presently its total level of support is approximately $3.16B (FY96), while the research appropriation is $2.254B.

Other funding comes from sources such as Minerals Management Services, the National Marine Fisheries Service (NOAA) and the Department of Energy. As awareness of the complex interactions of the oceans, the atmosphere and the land increase, so will the diversity of potential funding sources.

 

Job opportunities - in the past a major destination for oceanographers was academia, but this has changed with more openings in the government (strongly influenced by the environmental position of the administration in power) and the private sector (consulting firms, oil companies etc.).

Increased competition for both positions and funding have resulted from the relatively young age of oceanography as compared to, say, chemistry (just reaching a stable age distribution) and the historical trend for us to clone ourselves through our graduate students.

 

The number of Ph.D.'s produced yearly in oceanography rose sharply early in the 60's and 70's and then leveled out somewhat. The cumulative number of Ph.D.'s in oceanography has shown an almost exponential increase.

 

A "family" tree will illustrate part of this dilemma.

 

Important Terms: Magellan, latitude, longitude, Charles Darwin, , Nansen, FRAM, Wegner

Summary Time Line for 1825-2000

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